zg_shadows | A Vogue Exclusive

One of the best kept secrets in the fashion world is the custom jeweller, Bijouterie. You won't see advertisements for them in even the trendiest magazines, but among the rich and famous their name is a byword for quality.

The business was originally founded by Jade Allen in the late 1980s, and on her death it was taken over by her assistant, Natasha Sinclair, who has, if anything, increased Bijouterie's already sky-high reputation. Miss Sinclair spared time from her busy schedule to favour us with an interview.

Miss Sinclair, how long have you been working in the jewellery business?

Oh, it must be fifteen years now. Yes; three or four years as an apprentice, and then Miss Allen took me on here. Goodness, it doesn't seem that long.

I've never seen an advertisement for Bijouterie - do you advertise at all, or do you rely on word of mouth for all your business?

Well, yes and no. That is... we're a small business, there's only so much work we can handle, so we don't - we don't want to disappoint people, you see, or to bite off more than we can chew. But we do do shows sometimes, to get the word out - to get the word out to a wider circle than our existing clients. We did a show in 2006, alongside the fashion house Arcadia.

Are you planning to do a show this year?

No, no. Shows are a lot of work, a lot of time that we could be spending on commissions. And we're slightly short-staffed at the moment, so I don't want to be encouraging demand I might not be able to meet. Maybe next year, though.

I've seen a lot of Bijouterie jewellery at charity events; what's the reason for that?

Oh, well, yes, I suppose we do do quite a lot of charity work. It just seems like the thing to do, you know? I mean, it seems odd to just go on making and selling jewellery while people are dying - and it's not wrong, people need to remember that there are beautiful things in the world too - but it's just odd. So I like, sometimes, I like to try and raise money that way; to use the beauty we create to relieve suffering.

Your work has been compared to that of the original Fabergé by some commenters; how do you feel about that?

Well... well, I do my best. I don't know, we focus on a very different side of the craft. I like to think that the jewellery we make is as good as anyone else in the world today; but Fabergé? I don't know. I guess... give me an unlimited budget to make Easter eggs and I guess we'd find out.

What is the most unusual item you've ever been commissioned to make?

Oh; I guess that would be the brooch. The client had some very unusual requirements, they wanted a black brooch, one that didn't sparkle, and they wanted it to be easy to clean, so that ruled out any kind of engraving, really. I made it eventually in gunmetal and jet, with a very clean, simple line; very modern.

But that's not the kind of jewellery you're best known for, is it?

Oh, no, no. I like the modern - it's surprisingly difficult trying to get that simple look right - but I'm fondest of the Byzantine style. Lots of gemstones, lots of colour, lots of sparkle, very sumptuous. I also do a lot of engraved jewellery; I love creating intricate patterns, I could spend days doing it if m-my assistants didn't remind me that it's not cost effective!

You sound as if jewellery is more your vocation than your profession.

Oh, it is. I just... everything about it is beautiful. The raw materials, all shining and sparkling and worth a fortune in themselves, taking them and trying to make them into the image I've got in my mind, to bring out that beauty and make something that's really worthy of that potential... I love it, I really do.

What would you say is the best thing you've ever made?

Oh, well, I shouldn't say, really. Everything I make is as beautiful as I can make it; I like to think I improve with every piece. I guess... the piece I'm fondest of was one I designed really to suit myself, I had a client who wanted a necklace for his girlfriend, he just asked me to make whatever I thought was best. It ended up as a white gold crescent with dark stones, in a geometric pattern that hid a wolf image; his family motif. Trying to hide the motif subtly in a geometric pattern was a lot of fun. I hope she liked it.

Do you sell anything other than commissions?

Oh, yes. There's always a few pieces for sale in the shop, and they help give people ideas, as well. Not everyone knows exactly what it is they want when they come in, and sometimes they'll see something they like and take it home with them, and as long as they're happy, that's good.

So finally; what would it cost me if I wanted a custom piece of jewellery from you?

Oh, well, that depends on the piece, on exactly what you wanted done. And of course everything here is hand-made and original. So for something like a modern-style pendant, that's just basically an eye-catching smooth shape in precious metal, it might be as little as £2000. But for something bigger, with a lot of materials, a lot of work, or filigree - filigree takes a lot of time - something like the necklace I made for Mr... for the client's girlfriend, that would go into the tens of thousands.

Miss Sinclair, thank you for your time.

Natasha Sinclair, proprietress of Bijouterie, interviewed by Melanie Graham. You can contact Bijouterie on <telephone number> or at their premises at <address>.